Burberry Bets on Heritage Revamp to Turn Around Fortunes Amid Mounting Losses

November 14, 2024 08:36 AM GMT | By Team Kalkine Media
 Burberry Bets on Heritage Revamp to Turn Around Fortunes Amid Mounting Losses
Image source: Shutterstock

Highlights:

  • Strategic Shift to Core Heritage Products: Burberry’s new plan focuses on returning to its traditional product range under CEO Joshua Schulman’s leadership.
  • Mounting Losses Highlight Urgency: The luxury fashion house reported a £41 million adjusted loss for the first half, underscoring the need for a swift turnaround.
  • Shareholders Optimistic Despite Risks: Burberry shares surged 20.7% after the update, reflecting investor optimism despite challenges, including reliance on Chinese consumer sentiment.

Burberry Group PLC (LSE:BRBY) has unveiled a new strategic plan to revive its struggling luxury business, as the iconic British fashion house faces increasing pressure to return to profitability. The update, delivered by CEO Joshua Schulman, emphasizes a shift back to Burberry’s core heritage products and traditional collections, moving away from recent forays into seasonal fashion trends.

A Race Against Time

Analysts have expressed a mix of cautious optimism and concern about the speed of the turnaround. AJ Bell analyst Russ Mould highlighted the urgency of the situation, noting, “Time is clearly of the essence as Burberry is bleeding cash and racking up material losses.” The firm posted a significant adjusted loss of £41 million for the first half of the year, compared to a £223 million profit in the same period last year. UBS analysts pointed out that while the loss was slightly better than the £46 million initially expected, the figures still underscore the need for swift corrective action.

Refocusing on Core Offerings

Schulman’s strategy marks a deliberate pivot back to Burberry’s roots, aiming to revitalize its traditional outerwear and iconic trench coats, which have been the brand’s hallmark. The move is part of a broader plan to drive sales back to the £3 billion mark annually, though the absence of a clear timeline for achieving these targets has left some investors wanting more clarity.

“Burberry's update provided little financial detail, which could be somewhat disappointing,” UBS analysts commented. They noted that while the strategic direction is promising, the lack of a concrete roadmap for profitability may temper investor enthusiasm in the longer term.

Dependence on Chinese Market

Burberry’s reliance on the Chinese market remains a critical factor, with sales in the region plummeting by 24% in the first half. Mould pointed out that this dependency poses a risk, given fluctuating consumer sentiment in China, a major market for luxury goods. The recent decline in sales highlights the broader challenges Burberry faces as it seeks to re-establish its brand appeal globally.

Charles Stanley analyst Gary White described Schulman’s task as “unenviable,” given the need to navigate a complex luxury market while addressing internal financial struggles. White also hinted that ongoing speculation about a potential takeover bid by luxury rival Moncler could be a positive development for Burberry, providing the external support needed to stabilize its position.

Market Reaction and Shareholder Confidence

Despite the mixed outlook, shareholders reacted positively to the update, driving Burberry shares up by 20.7% on Thursday. The surge suggests that investors are cautiously hopeful about Schulman’s vision for the brand, even as they await more detailed financial targets and milestones.

The strategic refocus, combined with potential interest from external parties like Moncler, could offer a lifeline for Burberry as it seeks to rebuild its brand and financial performance. For now, the iconic fashion house has made a clear bet on its heritage, hoping that a return to its core products will resonate with customers and reignite its path to profitability.


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